Yintoni autoblock? Njengoko ukuluka unit izama: Scheme

Autoblock banalo uluhlu olubanzi noko izicelo: ibizwa lisanyuka (njengokuba umkhenkethi kunye mveliso), kunye ukwenyuka amatye kunye uthambisa, kunye nomsebenzi yohlangulo. Ngokufutshane, naphi na apho kuyimfuneko ukuba azibandakanyi enokuthenjwa xa kukho ukusilela ngequbuliso, esiludumbo ifuna uqhagamshelwano.

Autoblock Kukho iintlobo ezininzi, nganye kuzo ifuna izakhono ukunitha kwemigodi elahlukileyo ngokucokisekileyo xa kuthe kwakho imeko kaxakeka ukwenza izinto tye. Emva eqinisa iindibano kubaluleke kakhulu ukuba ukuluka ngokuchanekileyo kangangoko kunokwenzeka, ukususela koku, ngaphandle ubaxo, kuya kuxhomekeka ubomi bomntu.

imithetho enzulu

Autoblock abanayo eziliqela iimpawu ezikhethekileyo eziya ngokuqinisekileyo kuthathelwa ingqalelo kwaye khumbula:

• Azikho bancome ngeentsontelo, ngcingo ngaphandle nangegolide ku Repshnur namabhanti eyenziwe le Kevlar, Spectra kunye Dyneema. Ukungaphumeleli ukwenza njalo yingozi ebomini!
• Ngokuqonda loop lokumisa akakwazi zingawisi naluphi na iindawo ezongezelelweyo.
• Kucetyiswa ukuba usebenzise intambo kunye nomkhosi xa yokucazulula 9.8 KN 7 mm ubukhulu kunye 7 KN ukuba ububanzi of 6 mm.
• Oku ngelithi ukuba umgqakhwe ibandla ndibamba kunokuba naphi na kwi adubule. Noko ke, climbers okunongwe Kucetyiswa ngamandla ukuba zifake ngezantsi.
• Autoblock ukuba bube kukolulwa phantsi komthwalo, zinokusetyenziswa kuphela ngexesha kwakhona, kodwa ke ngelo xesha yehla ukusuka ephakamileyo.
• ndlela ifanelekileyo siqonde yunithi isebenza ukuba usebenzisa intambo, esibonakala ubukhulu kabini.
• Ayikhuthazwa ukusebenzisa naluphi na uhlobo wokukuqonda iintambo ibandla icing, ekubeni nkqu kwimeko setting enqabileyo iya kuba slippage phezu kwemigaqo inkxaso.
• Lo mhlaba ibaluleke gqitha kuyo nayiphi iyunithi ndibamba - ukukwazi layo kweso zilibaziseke apho kukho ukusilela umthwalo, nokuba ngumntu okanye impahla.

Prusik lokumisa

Wonke umntu onomdla ukwenza njani ukuqonda unit kwindawo yokuqala idla Kucetyiswa ukuba basebenzise eli hlobo. Prusik ithiywe emva kumdlali - uKarl Prusik, owasungula ngo-1931. Lokumisa wokubopha ekudambiseni sangqa mm-6 ukuya kwesi-7 ehlabathini engundoqo cable okanye ngentambo bepali ukusuka mm-9 ukuya kwi-14. Prusik ihambisa ngokwalo njengoko intshukumo ezantsi okanye phezulu umntu, yaye kwimeko ukusilela nangoko kwimali, ngaloo ndlela Ukuhlanganisa oluthembekileyo.

Kangangexesha elithile Prusik walawula ephakamileyo phakathi climbers, kodwa ekuhambeni kwexesha kubekho iinguqulelo ezininzi yena kunye namacandelo clutch ngokubanzi. Noko ke, kude kube ngoku kucingwa "esisiseko" kunye ngokuzibophelela kwi sifundo.

ulandelelwano lokukhwela Prusik imi ngolu hlobo lulandelayo:

• intambo sithathwa, loop kwangaphambili-Icala;
• intambo leyo inxeba izihlandlo ezithathu malunga intambo ezingundoqo ukwenzela ukuba ngaphakathi yomtya;
• ukuqinisekisa yonke into isantya loop okuzalisekileyo akukho kwakudibana nabanye ulale tyaba, kufuneka nsinya ngeqhina lomtshato.

French Prusik

Yena Marshara node. Kucetyiswa ukuba basebenzise, ukuba kwakusazeka engaphambili ukuba umthwalo ziya kwenziwa kuphela elinye kwicala elithile. Fit indibano ngolu hlobo lulandelayo:

• Intambo yokuqala amkelwe, nto leyo esicwangciswe loop.
• Ngoko ke usonga ngeenxa intambo engundoqo.
• Kuyinto kathathu intambo ngokubhijela ngeenxa zonke intambo engundoqo. Kuyimfuneko ukuqinisekisa ngokungqongqo ukuba ingeniso ngamnye emva koko wasondela waza agudileyo kuthelekiswa ijika elidlulileyo.
• Ukuba inxalenye intambo leyo eshiyekileyo, igqithiselwa kwi yomtya kwaye some ngendlela apho impahla kufuneka zifakwe kwi lumiswe.

Lendawo ibhekisa ebizwa ngokuba ukucaca, ngoko ukuthatha ngokungqongqo akukhuthazwa kuye. Kuyenzeka ukuba asebenzise inani amathuba ehlabathini intambo engundoqo njengoko kuyimfuneko. Njengoko kunjalo kunye neyunithi ebambe yesiqhelo intambo eziphambili abanalo enobubanzi ngaphezu Repshnur ububanzi. Lo mthetho: ezisondeleyo intambo omnye komnye ububanzi, ukusebenza kwaye ke ukhuseleko French Prusik ngezantsi.

Lendawo Bachman

climbers abaninzi makhwelo nomdla ukuqonda ebandleni. Indlela ukuluka kuyo, abantu abaninzi abazi. Oku kudla Kucetyiswa kuphuhliso ebizwa ngokuba yi-Bachman node. Uthwala igama layo umenzi - Franz Bachmann. Njengoko i-inshorensi ngokwayo indibano lisetyenziswa kungeyonto ayenza rhoqo.

Ukuze uyibophe, yenze la manyathelo alandelayo:

• ukwenza inxenye lide ye umpu ukuya intambo engundoqo;
• Intambo elula usebenzisa carabiner, ulisonge ukuya kwenza ambalwa (idla amabini okanye amathathu), carabiner primatyvaya kunye intambo omnye komnye;
• Bachmann lokumisa kwabangela ngokukhawuleza umthwalo isusiwe kuye, kodwa zila lophanyazo, kodwa kuba umthwalo inokuba lokutyibilika kancinane.

Kukho kwakhona wobeko zale inshorensi. Umzekelo, part-Bachmann itayi. Nge loop yakhe yokutrima yokuqala iquka intambo amabini okanye amathathu, uze kuphela (kwakhona 2-3 ajike) intambo carabiner eziqhotyoshelwe kuyo.

Psevdobahman - ukuqonda indibano umzobo lumi ngolu hlobo lulandelayo: Intambo yokuqala luquka intambo ephambili ukuba ukudla yomtya ngoko carabiner, njengoko kunjalo weklasiki node Bachman. Eso ibandla uyondelelanise 'kubhabho', ngaphandle unhooking umthwalo ngokwayo. Okubalulekileyo! Psevdobahman inikeza iimpawu zayo olubiyeleyo kuphela phezu kwentambo uqhuba okanye intambo. Ukuba SAG - indibano iya kwaphuka.

Ekugqibeleni, abafundi phambene Polytech psevdobahmana ngobuwena ecetywayo apho node eqalisa kaloliwe enye, njengoko kunjalo psevdobahmanom eqhelekileyo ngoko olu khetho lukhangelwe umqhubi nto zibambene nayo le carabiner. Esiludumbo kunye ogama - UPI (igama lesikolo), nangona eyaziwa ngokuba umbhali wayo - umkhokeli A. Yu Yagovkin..

ebambe ebonakala double

Njengoko kunjalo kunye namanye iintlobo-inshorensi, phambi kokuba Ngokufumana iyunithi ukuluka kabini, kufuneka uqinisekise ukuba ngeentsontelo eziphambili ngokwemfundo kwanancedisayo ziyahluka ubukhulu. Oko kukuthi, intambo kufuneka ube nje ukubhitya intambo fixed - ngeyona kwisiqingatha.

Kukho iindlela ezimbini ukuba ungenza iqhina ebambe kabini. Le yokuqala ibonisa ukuba intambo wakunyelisa engundoqo amalungiselelo ezimbini indibano clutch ukuqhela omnye komnye. Ngoko ke, lo ebona unokuqiniseka ukuba ngenxa yesizathu esithile akuphumeleli izama elinye ilungu elisisiseko - umsebenzi yesibini.

Ngokutsho komnye ngobuwena, iziporo zikaloliwe ezimbini Walinxiba ngeenxa isiseko intambo. Ngoko ke kunokwenzeka ukuba aququzelele njenge kabini kunye indibano kathathu ebambe macala.

Ebambe umuntu ekupheleni node

Esiludumbo ebambe enye isiphelo libotshelelwe scheme enye yamandulo, kodwa hayi threaded khetho lukhangelwe akhiwa intambo agobe, yaye omnye isiphelo kuphela.

node Poluskhvatyvayuschy

Olo ibandla kufana isiqingatha ebambe. ekudambiseni lokuqala wawusongwe ingundoqo intambo ke omnye, yaye emva koko ibekwe ecaleni komnye coil (kufuneka ukubukela ngokusondeleyo ukuphepha seqela), kwaye isiphelo simahla intambo yangaphakathi kwi loop. Le yunithi akufuneki zisetyenziswe iintaba, ukhenketho njalo njalo. D. Isetyenziswa kuphela ekhaya.

lokumisa Direct klemheist

Ukuze Ukuseka ngqo ukuqonda node Austria kucetyiswa ezisisiseko setyhula ngentambo bepali ukususela 9 ukuya kwi-15 mm kunye intambo ubudeki abangabancedani ka-6 ukuya kwesi-7 mm. Okuya uba mkhulu umahluko kwi ubukhulu, ngokuqina ibandla ebambe.

intambo Dual le ibhijelwe amaxesha 4-6 intambo esingatshintshiyo, emva koko isiphelo free yayo yangaphakathi kwi yomtya kwicala ukusuka ezantsi ukuya phezulu ngokwalo. Olo ibandla ngokuqhelekileyo olusetyenziswa kwiintlobo ezahlukeneyo bewela.

lokumisa Reverse klemheist

Xa ngombala senziwe esiludumbo 2-3 coil kabini intambo ngeenxa intambo nkqo ilungiswe ngakwicala ezantsi. unit Reverse Austria ufumana ngange isicelo sawo ngexesha intshukumo nkqo, kuquka yenkomo.

keylock Automatic

A isici esasenza keylock Zenzekelayo kukuba emancamini omabini intambo ayifakwanga azinamsonto ngokusetyenziswa ndzhendzheleko kunye carabiner lokuvala. Omnye kuphela ukhipha kubo, kwaye esiludumbo nangoko ulucombulule yi amandla intambo ilastiki.

keylock Zenzekelayo Kukhethwa ukuba usebenzise i-inshorensi ngexesha ngokomnombo okanye nezinyuko. Nguye kwezinye iimeko kakhulu ngakumbi enokuthenjwa ikhuseleke kakhulu Prusik efanayo. Noko ke, eyona nto ibalulekileyo kukuba ukuthembeka autolock ixhomekeke kakhulu kumbandela apho yenziwa njengoko Repshnur kunye intambo ephambili. izinto ngokukhethekayo ezithambileyo.

iimpazamo Common

Beginners ukufunda nje autoblock ubandakanywa bavame ukuba iimpazamo eziqhelekileyo zilandelayo:

• Ngexesha ukusetyenziswa, izama ibandla lwabaqalayo, uyakwazi ganga node ngokwayo yesundu. Oku nakanjani kukhokelela kukuba xa kukho isandla likaxakeka kusincede singadani, nto leyo esiludumbo akaphumeleli, kwaye phambili umthwalo ishenxiselwe ngqo ngesandla. Kakade ke, ukuthintela ukuhla ngenxa imigudu entendeni kuphela engenakwenzeka, kodwa ngenxa yesiphoso igcwele intlungu. Ukuze uphephe oku, kufuneka wayiyeka isandla esiludumbo ngokwayo yaye etsala intambo axhasayo.
• Nangona isibakala sokuba ulwazi malunga unit ebambe iyafumaneka lula kwaye kwesi sikolo ukwenyuka jikelele unikwa ixesha elininzi, wabaqalayo kodwa kwakhona kwaye kwakhona kwaye kuvumela Imposiso elandelayo ezinkulu: kuqhina inani elingonelanga amathuba malunga undoqo intambo, okanye, ngokuchasene - inombolo ngokugqithiseleyo. Kwimeko yokuqala, kusenokwenzeka ukuba revolution enye nje akanako ukugcina eJozi eyadala. A lokunxibela elula kunokubangela kuwa ongalawulekiyo. Kule yesibini - esiludumbo itshixiwe ngexesha zokuhamba ukuya lock ngokupheleleyo.
• Ukusebenzisa kwikholam efanayo ixesha elide. Nkqu Repshnur eside kakhulu ekugcineni asibulale, ingakumbi kwiimeko yokuxhaphaza kakhulu. Kufuneka ube ngenyameko kuhlola intambo ngenxa yomonakalo phambi kokuyisebenzisa.
• Amaninzi enza njengoko ibandla inshorensi ebambe. Indlela ukuluka ukuba abe injani? Kufuneka kuqatshelwe ukuba ubude lesiphelo free kokukhululwa Repshnur akufuneki igqithe ubude esandleni sakhe. Kungenjalo, ngexesha elibalulekileyo akanako nje ukufikelela ukuba intambo engundoqo.
• Ngexesha ukuhanjiswa node ekufuneka behambe ngesandla, kunokuba uhambisa isandla sakhe (bona isitanza. Okokuqala), okanye tsala iziphelo evakalala intambo. Ukusilela mzuzu yesibini kungakhokelela ukuyilwa seqela, leyo kakhulu buthathaka ibandla okumbophelela.
• Okokugqibela, kufuneka ulandele ngokucacileyo ukusuka kulawulo ekhankanywe ngasentla: Ububanzi intambo engundoqo kufuneka ibe amaxesha malunga enye enesiqingatha ngaphezu Ebubanzini intambo. lobudlelwano engamkelekanga, kwaye nkqu ubudeki elinye intambo akayi kuba negalelo inqaba iseti node.